Those who are old enough might remember when rosé was awful.
Back in the 1960s and 1970s, most rosé wines came from the central San Joaquin Valley in California and from Portugal, often in ceramic bottles. And they were generally made from mediocre grapes using methods that today would be considered antediluvian.
Their key feature was sugar. Many were so sweet that I almost gagged on them. Some were being promoted as a perfect all-purpose wine because they would go with either fish or meat.
It was a lie. The pink wines back then were frequently not even pink; orange was their usual pigmentation due to frequent oxidation.
All of that has changed. Today, most rosé wines are made with infinitely more care, using superior grapes, such as pinot noir and grenache. The biggest difference is that most of the wines are dry or off-dry.
This has led to people recalling the old adage about the wine being paired with both meat and fish.
Most of today’s fine pink wines are interesting in that they don’t require much chilling. The best bottles can be absolutely delightful when served just cool.
That’s because they usually contain sufficient acidity, so too much chilling might harm their delicate fragrances and food compatibility.
Here are a few pointers on purchasing:
Buy varietal rosés: Pinot noir from cooler areas can produce gorgeous fragrances, attractive midpalate flavors, and a crispness just perfect for either sipping by itself or pairing with lighter foods. I’m also a huge fan of grenache rosés. Generic rosé wines are usually variable.
Watch the alcohol: The best rosés tend to be about 11 percent alcohol. Once the alcohol level rises above 12 percent, I get a little concerned about the weight of the wine. Lighter-weight rosé wines tend to be better balanced. Any rosé above 13.5 percent alcohol is probably not going to be well balanced.
Chill to taste: Like any recipe that suggests adding salt “to taste,” a fine rosé might not need much chilling. I prefer them cooler rather than intensely iced. When the wine reaches the right temperature for you, take it out of the ice bucket and return it only when it warms up.
